Travel Spotlight: Jaipur

january-travels-jaipur-03As the new year begins, one thing I like to do is plan out my future travels.  I loved this spotlight in Architectural Digest — perhaps a visit to India is on the docket?

Read the full article on AD.com


Bursting with ornate palaces and imposing forts, the city of Jaipur has been a commercial and cultural hub in northern India for centuries. The capital of the noble state of Rajasthan, it is one of the world’s most important craft centers, renowned for its block-printed cottons, metalwork, hand-painted clay pottery, and, most spectacularly, fine jewelry. Known as the Pink City thanks to its profusion of salmon-hued façades (painted for a visit from the Prince of Wales, the future Edward VII, in 1876), Jaipur is a true feast for the senses. As fashion designer Matthew Williamson says, “For any creative person, the colors, aromas, and artisanal work here are a must.”

It’s a magnet for Indians seeking opportunity, too. Between 2000 and 2011, Jaipur’s population shot up more than 25 percent to over three million. “It’s become a big city really quickly,” says Oscar de la Renta Home creative director (and AD contributing style editor) Carolina Irving, who sources embroidery and researches prints there several times a year. “But even with the traffic and madness, it’s still incredibly charming.” And the congestion is being somewhat relieved by a new mass-transit system, unveiled last June. But for all that, “Jaipur has held on to the feeling of old India,” says Raghavendra Rathore, a local fashion and accessories designer. “The hauntingly beautiful sound of the peacocks is one of my most vivid memories as a child, and Jaipur is one of the places where they still roam.”

Peacocks are not the only animals on the loose. Weaving amid the honking traffic of the city center are elephants, monkeys, goats, cows, and camels. It’s dusty and unruly, but there is much beauty in the chaos. “I remember my first visit,” recalls interior designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard. “It was all so overwhelming until I saw a group of ladies looking pristine and resplendent in pink, green, and gold saris. The intensity of the colors was riveting.”

Historic citadels like the massive Amber Palace, seven miles northeast of Jaipur, and, closer in, the colonnaded Nahargarh Fort are a good reason to venture outside the capital, but royal residences are plentiful in Jaipur’s old town, too–don’t miss the never-ending pink City Palace and the Palace of the Winds, whose latticelike exterior of sandstone and stained glass is one of the area’s most eye-catching icons.

As the city has grown, contem­porary spaces have also made an impact. Most prominent is Charles Correa’s 1993 Jawahar Kala Kendra center, a dynamic arts complex. “The coffeehouse there is a real draw,” says Rachel Bracken-Singh, who with her husband, Pritam Singh, runs the block-print clothing and linens company Anokhi, which has a shop in town. “The staff wear uniforms with sashes and hats, and it’s buzzing with locals.” (Bracken-Singh was instrumental in setting up the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing in a gorgeously refurbished estate a 35-minute drive out of town.)

While there is a lot to be said for the charms of heritage hotels such as the drop-dead luxurious Rambagh Palace and the ornate Samode Haveli, an increasing number of places offer a compelling balance of old and new, notably the recently opened Suján Rajmahal Palace. In the renovated 1729 structure, designer Adil Ahmad contrasts maximalist ornamentation–a riot of bright wall coverings, antique chandeliers–with elegant, clean-lined furniture. A highlight is its in-house restaurant, 51 Shades of Pink, “a most extraordinary concoction of wildly colored pink wallpaper and giant peonies,” Bullard says.

The clothes are utterly chic at the multilabeled boutique Hot Pink, established in 2005 by jewelers Marie-Hélène de Taillac and late Gem Palace co-owner Munnu Kasliwal in the gardens of the high-camp 1928 Hotel Narain Niwas Palace. Featured are names like Idli and the eponymous minimalist line of Rajasthan native Rajesh Pratap Singh. Taillac has since stepped down from the shop, but, she says, “I still love spending time at Bar Palladio in the Narain Niwas gardens, which are full of birds and monkeys.” The restaurant–recently smartened up by Marie-Anne Oudejans, the designer behind the fashion brand Tocca– balances bright murals with crisp upholstery and engraved crystalware. “It reinterprets Indian style in a fresh way,” says Carolina Irving, another fan.

India on the whole is a foodie paradise, and Jaipur is no exception. For traditional palace cuisine, head to the Amber Palace’s rooftop restaurant, 1135 AD, which Siddharth Kasliwal, who became co-owner of the Gem Palace after his father’s death, loves for its “stunning views, rooms full of mirrors, and amazing assort­ment of breads.” Even some delectable (and hy-­gienic) street food spots are now must-dos. “Lassiwala, the kefir stand on M. I. Road, is the best you will ever have,” says designer John Robshaw, who works with Jaipur block printers to create his textiles. Leafy salads made with lettuces from a nearby organic farm are safe and delicious at Anokhi’s in-house Anokhi Cafe. And the restaurant at LMB Hotel is one of the top places to dive into a vegetarian thaal, or sampler plate, of lentils, curried vegetables, and fried dumplings.